Helsinki, 30 October 2024
A pilot enforcement project by ECHA’s Enforcement Forum found that 6 % of inspected cosmetic products contained hazardous substances banned under POPs and REACH regulations.
The national enforcement authorities in 13 European Economic Area (EEA) countries checked nearly 4500 cosmetic products, mainly looking at the ingredients list, for the presence of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), long chain perfluorocarboxylic acids (PFCAs) and related substances, and cyclic siloxanes D4 and D5. The authorities found that 285 of the inspected cosmetics included hazardous chemicals whose use is banned in these products. Those found were:
- Perfluorononyl dimethicone
- Perfluorooctylethyl triethoxysilane
- Perfluorononylethyl carboxydecyl PEG-10 dimethicone; and
- Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclomethicone (a blend of D4, D5 and D6), cyclotetrasiloxane (D4).
These substances are not allowed in cosmetics because they have been identified as persistent organic pollutants (POPs) or (very) persistent, (very) bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT/vPvB) that adversely affect human health and the environment. Their use is banned under the Stockholm Convention on POPs or restricted under the REACH Regulation.
Based on national experience perfluorononyl dimethicone was primarily found in eyeliners and lipliners, in pencil or crayon form. D4 and D5 were found in hair conditioners and hair masks.
For example, perfluorononyl dimethicone degrades into PFOA and long chain perfluorocarboxylic acids. PFOA and siloxanes, D4 and D5, break down slowly in the environment and build up in humans and other species. PFOA is not only persistent in the environment but also toxic to reproduction and suspected of causing cancer. D4 is also suspected of damaging fertility.
Authorities’ actions
The inspections were mainly done by checking the ingredients list – measures that can be easily used also by consumers. Consumers should be aware that the restricted substances were found in different types of cosmetic products, from various sellers and at all price ranges.
The enforcement authorities have taken measures to remove the non-compliant products from the market. In most cases, the first step was issuing written advice to guide suppliers on how to comply with the law. At the time of writing the report, investigations were still ongoing in about half of the cases.
Background
ECHA is responsible for the REACH and POPs regulations that also apply to cosmetic mixtures. This pilot project focused on the enforcement of PFCAs and related substances, PFOA and D4/D5 in cosmetics. The project contributes to the harmonised enforcement of integrated control of chemicals in cosmetics under the POPs and REACH regulations.
The inspections of this pilot enforcement project were conducted between November 2023 and April 2024 in 13 EEA countries.
Forum project report
Further information
- FORUM project report: enforcement of restrictions of PFCAs and related substances focusing on cosmetics
- Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs) Regulation
- List of substances subject to the POPs Regulation
- List of substances restricted under REACH
- Press release about the Finnish results of this pilot project including the list of products removed from the market
- Enforcement Forum
Note to editors: A total of 13 EEA countries participated in this pilot project; Austria, Denmark, Germany, Finland, Iceland, Italy, Lichtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Norway, Romania and Sweden.
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is an Agency of the European Union implementing EU chemical regulations, protecting health and the environment.
Source: www.echa.europa.eu